Tuesday, May 12, 2020

34.) Hiking Upside Down.....Snow Drifter......Spherical Vision?

     Every morning I wake up at my makeshift campsite and head into the little town of Tusayan for coffee.  Then it’s into the the park. For most of the morning I wander the rim-side trail that runs the length of the park, and eventually a mile or so into the canyon on the South Kibab Trail where I once again marvel at power of the natural world.  I think “Humans can’t even compete…..not ever….not even close.
The little geology museum is splendid. Built right on the canyon’s edge and offering panoramic views from it’s wrap around windows.  It’s amazing what people can learn from just examining rocks.  I read the various plaques and learn about the movement of entire continents.  About volcanic island chains slamming into the North American landmass and then being forced underground. 

The hikes here are backwards….or upside down.  I’m used to climbing UP on the hike out, making the return trip much easier. When you hike into the Grand Caynon, you start by going down, and it feels like you could hike forever.  You hear all sorts of horror stories about the people not realizing how difficult the hike out will be and exhausting themselves on the climb. For this reason I pace myself and do a few test hikes to feel it out.  On my longest one I make it to the 3 mile rest house on the Bright Angel Trail. The elevation change is nearly 2,000 feet in those 3 miles.  The way out is rough on the ass and legs but not as bad as anticipated.  The past few weeks of hiking have made me stronger. The thought of camping at on the canyon’s floor starts to seep into my brain.  It’s a long way, and the hike out would take all day, but I think I’d regret if I didn’t give it a shot. I mean….I’m already here.


The next morning, laying in the back of the jeep I’m deep into the escalating conflict of a Michael Crichton novel and unaware of the world around me.  When I finally emerge from the trance, a thin sheet of snow has accumulated on the forest and it’s still coming down.  I can’t believe I didn’t notice it.  But, with hiking out of the question in such conditions (Upon leaving Texas, my only cold weather gear consists of a few hoodies and one pair of long pants.) I head into town and find a picnic table where I grill up a few cheese sandwiches on my camp stove and and watch the flakes float lazily to the ground.  

     It’s been a long time since I’ve seen any kind of substantial snow fall and I’ve forgotten how much I miss it.  The silence is my favorite part of it I think. It takes me back to Northern Illinois. Waking up after a big overnight snowfall and stepping outside to be engulfed in that world of white silence.  Everything is rolling drifts and rounded edges.  
     I go into a McDonalds for coffee and to warm up after my grilled cheese.  I do some research on the trails into the canyon, read some more and just people watch.  It’s been years since I’ve taken in such a sight.  People in big puffy jackets coming through the sliding glass doors and stomping the snow from their boots. Clutching steaming cups of coffee in gloved hands close to the face in an effort to thaw out noses. The whole experience would be more enjoyable if I had the proper attire and cold weather gear. Without it, I'm cold and uncomfortable the majority of the time spent outside of my sleeping bag.  For the rest of the day I post up at the Stage Stop Coffee Shop.  Inside it’s warm and they have big comfy chairs and free wifi.  Read, write, research…..and chat with the revolving door of patrons trying, like me, to wait out the storm.  I talk with a long distance hiker who has already walked hundreds of miles to get here; and is now planning a hike into the Grand Canyon and up the other side, emerging on the north rim. I chat with a family on vacation that is impressed with the trip I myself am on, and they even buy me a sandwich I inhale appreciatively.  
It’s all clear skies and sunshine the following morning and I realize that I don’t care about losing yesterday to the storm.  With no schedule or time frame to think about there's no reason to stress about it.  In fact, I rather enjoyed the break from hiking and the chance to explore the town, talk to the people…..read a book.  Sometimes I feel guilty if I don’t get anything constructive done in a day, but sometime stillness is necessary.  We’re obsessed with movement. Moving forward, moving up, climbing the ladder, be a go-getter, get ahead.  What’s next? Now what? All these described as virtues.  While stillness is a vice, always vaguely negative.  Stagnant, stuck in a rut, not going anywhere. Sloth is one the the seven deadly sins for christ's sake.  But I don’t think it’s all that bad. It’s ok to take time to enjoy where you are instead of constantly searching for the next thing. To look AROUND instead of only looking forward. Tunnel Vision…. Anyway, I enjoyed my lazy day away from the trail.  I’m fully recharged and ready to keep looking.....   


I wander the Rim trail that runs along the edge of the Caynon for a few miles taking pictures and admiring the views.  When I'm tired I post up at the next bus stop and wait for the shuttle to run me back to the head of the trail where the Jeep is parked.  While I wait I count 22 different people mindlessly staring at screens in one form or another. No one even acknowledges the people around them and it’s disheartening. The irony is not lost on me that I’m currently starring at a screen to write this while simultaneously bitching about people staring at screens. I’ll also point the irony of ME bitching about people not talking to each other considering the fact that 9 times out of 10 I'll go out of my way to avoid talking to people. At this particular moment tho, I’m disgusted by the hold over us that technology has attained. And to be honest, it ticks me off that people are sitting here, eyes and minds fixed on numbers of ‘likes’ and ‘followers’ when, if they just looked up they could stare at one of the naturals wonders of the world.  I board the bus and avoid eye contact with all of them.  

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