It was definitely a cut to black, not a fade. It was sudden, abrupt, and I didn't stand a chance. Out like a light, as they say. Whoever they are.
The next morning I’m up around 4:30 am to maximize my daylight hours for the hike out. It’s the most intense one I’ve tried yet. Probably the most intense hike I’ve ever tried and I plan to take my time. Don't wanna hurt myself, but I also don’t wanna hike in the dark. I’m nervous about this one. The hike to the bottom of the canyon was easier than anticipated but that does nothing to calm my nerves. I’m stiff and sore after yesterday’s hike, and I don't know how my body is going to handle doing it all ver again the very next day…and this time it’s up hill…all of it.
To fuel up, for breakfast I have another brat and the rest of my bacon I saved from yesterday. It’s good, and I’ll need it. By 6am camp is broke, my pack is full, and hoisted onto my shoulders. “Here we go”, I think to myself as I head out of the campground and towards the Bright Angle Trail.
The South Kaibab Trail, which I took INTO the canyon is bout 7 miles. I’m climbing out via the Bright Angel Trail which is about 9 miles long, but not as steep and has 3 or 4 water stations along its length. That’s why I chose it for my route back up, thinking longer but less steep will be easier if I just take my time. It’s seems logical enough as a set out, hoping I’m right.
The trailhead leads me over another suspension bridge spanning the Colorado River. I'm across and at the first rest stop (roughly a mile and a half from the campground, with no significant change in elevation) in about 40 minuets. I’m elated. I sit down to eat a cliff bar while thinking “maybe it won’t be so bad, off to a good start anyhow.”
A quick consultation of my map shows me the next section of trail is named “The Devil’s Corkscrew.” An ominous sounding set of steep switchbacks isolated from the rest of the canyon by vertical cliff walls. This is where the real hiking begins, and I push onward to see what the trail will throw at me with more than a few butterflies in my belly.
Not long after I start this section I have to remove my sweatshirt. I’ve survived the early morning chill, and now I'm starting to sweat. When my head emerges from my hoodie, I see another group of hikers has caught up to me. In there midst is an old Irishman who points up to the cliff's edge that marks the top of the Devils Corkscrew. I crane my neck to follow the end of his knobby finger toward 2 enormous birds perched high above us. “Condors,” he says, and as he does they leap from the rim, and into the canyon. Diving down, wings tucked tight too their sides, reaching unimaginable speeds. Then silently they spread their wings, continue their decent, and then with the slightest change in wing angle they swoop and soar back up, eyes always in search of their next meal. During this entire display the condors never once flap their wings. It’s all angles and updrafts, and it’s amazing to watch.
After the condor show, I rest often on my climb up the corkscrew. I try not to be discouraged when other hikers pass me but it’s difficult. I sooth myself with the fact that this is the steepest section of the whole trail. Inside the corkscrew sheer cliff walls are high and tight…..almost imposing…a bit claustrophobic. Small streams and waterfalls abound, running down cliff faces and spreading out across the hardpan flats. I use stepping stones on a few occasions to cross these streams and keep my socks dry. It’s a pro-walking stick argument and I'm glad I have one.
The top of the corkscrew is also the top of the bottom most canyon section which seems encouraging so I find a shady spot and rest for 30 minuets or so and take in the new view. When the walls were so close I could tell I was making progress. Now that they've pulled away, I feel like I've lost ground. I can see what I think is the rim now… and I have to squint to make it out….
It’s just over 3 miles to Indian Village and roughly the half way point of my hike out. This is the longest section of trail with nothing on it. That makes me nervous at first but soon it’s flattened out quite bit and I can hear the whispering babble of a brook. Hiking on, things get greener. The whole hike up to this point has been pretty beige. Some reddish pink rocks around but nothing in the way of vegitation. But now I'm seeing grasses, bushes. A lizard scurries across the trail in front of me and into the tall grass at the creeks edge. I hear birdsongs as I trudge further and come upon fully grown trees as I enter Indian Village. I’m accosted....by squirrels. They’ve definitely figured out that people have food, and when you don’t give it to them, they have no qualms about taking it from you the second your attention wanes. Now, I can’t prove it, but I have reason to believe that some of them are working together. Distracting me to look one way while others behind me rifled thru my bag for anything they could find. It's like a mob hit, or a military operation....Squirrel Team Six?
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